Devil in disguise
Dirty little secret
Yours, unexpectedly
Forever Young
Rocket scientist
Moonlite twist
Unlimited
Twisted Sensation
those are just some i thght of on the top a my mind

evil in disguise
dirty little secret
y

We are located on Keller Road in Clarence, New York. We focus on English horseback riding and offer boarding, training, horse lesson riding, horseback riding camps, horse shows, clinics, all kinds of horseback riding in NY and much more!

We take pride in our friendly atmosphere, facilities and the effectiveness of our programs.

Thanks

Karla

Height doesn’t matter- they just need to be stout with muscular legs. When you sit on the horse, you should feel his back able to support you. It should not dip in a lot (unless it is the first time the horse carried a heavier rider). The horse should be able to walk, trot, canter with ease. If it is losing it’s balance and tipping, the horse is not strong enough to support the weight.
Most horses can carry up to 220 with no problems, as long as they are accustomed to it. (I am around 200 and can ride everything from arabs to drafts).

If any of your family is over 300 or so, your best bet is a draft horse. My dad weighs about 280 and can ride a QH with no problem, but I think he is reaching the upper limits for a normal horse. Draft horses have been used to carry over 400 lbs on their back (drums and a person, for instance)
References :

http://www.thenakedhoof.com.au/

http://www.thehorseshoof.com/

http://www.tribeequus.com/

http://www.barefoothorse.com/barefoot_Strategy.html
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Riding for 31yrs Training for 20yrs & barefooted the whole time! hpts12

Horses can carry up to 20% of their own body weight without having any ill impact. For example a 1,500 lb horse should be able to carry a 300lb human. If a 350lb human rides him though that is where the trouble comes in. One ride even can do irreversable damage to their spine and back muscles.
A great first horse for you all would be a draft horse. They are usually gentol, smart, and safe which is exactly what you want from a first horse. Look for a Clydesdale, Percheron, etc that has been broke to ride (that is key because a lot of people just drive draft horses).

You can do an advanced search and put in that you want your horse to be over 16 hh (you guys are so tall that you need something at least that tall or you will look silly) and how ever heavy it needs to be. Hope that helps and good luck.
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http://www.dreamhorse.com

I went from a horse with train wreck feet needing corrective shoes ($175 just for the front every 8 weeks) to a TB needing regular shoes ($110 every 6-7 weeks) and my next horse is going to be an Andalusian. Part of the appeal for me of that breed (along with being awesome, gorgeous and the "ultimate dressage horse") is that they have really good feet and can be barefoot. $50-$60 every 6-8 weeks.

In any case, you transition a horse to barefoot by having a farrier remove their shoes. Give them a couple of days, see how the hoof wall is doing, check on the soles of their feet and keep your eyes out for any type of lameness. A LITTLE soreness is okay at first, but should go away within a few days.

PLEASE if your horse is sore barefoot put shoes back on. Leaving a hrose that needs shoes barefoot and sore/lame is a form of animal cruelty and people HAVE been going to jail for this.

http://fuglyhorseoftheday.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2009-01-15T09%3A21%3A00-08%3A00&max-results=7 <— The very first post is a GREAT one and the one I think you should read.

http://www.ilph.org/ukoperations_details.asp?id=652

I know you want what’s best for your horse. Work with your horse and your farrier to figure out what that is instead of deciding without any of the facts.
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I would check into a draft or draft cross and even one that was maybe trained to drive single, that way if any of your family is maybe too heavy to get up on him, they could always drive.

A draft would definately cover all your needs and not leave you with any worry of being able to carry the weight.
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When they have been trimmed I keep him of hard surfaces few a day or two but I do a lot of trail riding and he has no problem walking on roads. But make sure you get a person that actually knows how to barefoot trim. When my horse was done the first time by a supposed ‘professional’ she cut his hooves so short that he was standing like he had laminitis. I was so angry!

But the woman who does them now is great. You can actually learn to do it yourself. There are usually courses around that teach you,maybe you could look into it if you prefer barefoot horses. But his hooves look great, no cracks, he doesn’t go sore and it suits him really well.
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Whilst changing I would recommend using a product for his hooves to make them harder such as one with biotin in it. You can probably talk to your farrier and he/her will recommend something. Also on the bottom of the hoof you may want to but something on such as cold tar; but again your farrier would be the best to help you there.

When you talk to your farrier about what to do tell he his previous history, how long he has had the shoes on for, what sort of riding you will do and your farrier will tell you whether he thinks it is a good idea to change to barefoot – what you do may be entirely different and you may want to get a few opinions before actually choosing.

To the matter of price: Yes of course barefoot is cheaper. In the summer we get our ponies done every four or five weeks as their hooves grow so quickly and it is better to get them done before they are absolutely awful. In New Zealand (at the New Zealand dollar) you can pay from about $35 – $100 including travel, it really depends on how much that farrier wants to charge.

I am not for either barefoot or shoeing, as I said I do have two ponies that compete happily barefoot – so you probably could say I was a little bit for it. But I do choose for the horse not for me or the price of shoeing. If it is best for the horse then that is what I shall do, no matter if I believe in it or not. Hope this helped!!
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Personal experience, Talked to loads of farriers, done it before!!

Sorry, can’t think of anymore. Hope these helped!
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I would suggest 16hh+ though, out of personal bias and from knowing that alot of other heavier riders prefer larger horses. Warmblood breeds are usually good, and drafts are actually quite a nice ride as long as you don’t plan on competitively jumping or something. Really just look at calm, well trained horses in the size you want and don’t worry about breed as long as they’re healthy and strong.
References :

http://www.thehorseshoof.com/Art_Bowker.html

A certified barefoot trimmer will cost more than a regular farrier charges for the usual brand of trim, but it is worth the cost to have it done right.
ADD……it is not recommended that you use any hoof dressing, hardener, etc. on the barefoot hoof. All of these interfere with development of a healthy, rock hard hoof, and some do considerable harm. And the more exercise you give your horse, the more the tissues are perfused with blood, which is necessary to the adaptation of the hooves.
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57 years with barefoot horses and research

Those are mine, but you can check out:
http://www.freewebs.com/horse-show-names/a.htm
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What you want will depend on how much you ride, where you ride, your age, your personality, and whether you want a gaited horse or not. I suggest gaited if you are going to do much trail riding, but some people trail ride with ungaited horses (they just get left behind if they ride with people with gaited horses).

My wife and I and even my 5 year old ride 300 to 500 miles per year. This year a broken shoulder will probably limit me to 250 to 300.

Since this will apparrently be a family horse with more than one rider, I suggest a horse in the 7 to 10 year range that is VERY gentle. One that has been trail ridden extensively, and that is placid. In other words one that stands when tied and looks bored, will not act up and would much rather walk then run. Most people prefer 14.2 to 15.2 hands high but very few 16 hand horses are actually 16 hands. When measured they turn out to be much shorter. Most people do not like the idea of being up any higher than 15.2 and that would be plenty big enough for anyone as far as carrying even on a long trail.

I can not explain all the correct conformation for each breed. I suggest taking someone with you that knows the breed. Feel free to e-mail me if you like. I do not know where you live but I am in south central Missouri.

Though the breed does not matter mush there are a few that as a beginner you may wish to try and avoid. Clydesdales are subject to hoof problems. Drafts horses are actually too large for most people to ride comfortably and the feed bill is huge. Old breed quarter tend to be calm but watch the new breed ones as they are often breed for the race track with too much fire for someone who does not know what they are doing. Morgans tend to be good choices, as do Missouri Fox Trotters, and Tennessee Walkers. Rocky Mountains are good and the associated offshoots such as the spotted saddle horse BUT many are actually just fox trotters with a higher price tag. And of course do not forget the unregistered mix. They can be quite gentle. The main thing is to get one with a good disposition and conformation.
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Division 1: Beginner (Riders up to 16 years of age)
Class 1: Equitation (w/t)
Class 2: Equitation (w/t/individual canter)
Class 3: Cavaletti (w/t)
Class 4: Cavaletti (w/t/c)

Division 2: Novice Hunters (Beginner Riders, any age)
Class 5: Hunter O/F 2’3
Class 6: Hunter O/F 2’3/2’6
Class 7: Hunter O/F 2’6 *Stake*
Class 8: Hunter Under Saddle

Division 3: Open (open to anyone)
Class 9: Hunter O/F 3′
Class 10: Hunter O/F 3′
Class 11: Hunter O/F 3′ *Stake*
Class 12: Hunter Under Saddle

Hack Division:
Class 13: Road Hack
Class 14: Show Hack
Class 15: Pleasure Hack
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hunter/jumper/western/trail.. train my own horses.

Normally if they’ve been in shoes most of their days they are severely ouchy (even in grass). They will be ouchy on dirt roads for a very long time. You’ll need to ride in boots for awhile til he toughens up.

You can use Venice Turpentine to help toughen.

EDIT:
Hey GOOOD: You are referring to a blog by someone that is not a certified farrier, commenting with her own bias, and the trim that is being discussed is the STRASSER. That trim is barbaric and not used by normal day to day barefoot trimmers. Don’t put us all into one basket and you shouldn’t be trying to scare people off of keeping their horse barefoot.
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king p234
hpts

Jumpers need to be brave. They need to be able to approach any type of fences from the mundane to the truly weird and jump it without hesitating or knocking down any rails. The ideal jumper is built uphill, with its primary power in the hindquarters so that it can push itself over the larger jumps. Good conformation in the front end is also important as there is a ton of downward force as the horse lands after a big jump.

In the lower levels many riders just race around the courses trusting their horses to get them out of any jams they might find themselves in. This is ok over small fences, but as the heights go up a lot more thought and riding skill must go into a course. Wide jumps require a longer stride while high jumps require the horse to set back in order to make the height. When these kinds of jumps are combined together they can make for a very challenging ride.

Horse Jumper Tips – http://www.horse-stall.net/horse-articles/horse-jumping.htm
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Depending on your area you may be able to get by with going barefoot even with competitive trail that you are planning. I just wanted you to be aware that being adamant and inflexible can lead to problems.Give it a try. But be willing to do what is best for your horse even if it is getting shoes.
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but im pretty sure begginer would either be crossrails or like 2′ and ive riddien in limit rider and it was only 2′ – 2’3".

theres also pre-childrens which is 2’6" for horses and childrens which is 3"

i know theres a lotttttt more but these are the ones i remember off the top of my head =]
hope it helps!
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So it really depends on the horse. Please make sure you are doing what is best for the horse, not for you.

Hope I helped and best of luck!
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Hope i helped
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you need to take work very lightly after the first two months no rocky ground grass is preferrable

after a few weeks when you have put him in the paddock let his feet grow out a bit more than usual dont wrry if it cracks a little

call the farrier and get him to trim his feet then and make sure you let him know that hes a horse thats freashly become a barefoot.

there is a different way you trim a bare footed horses feet to a horse who gets shoes on either regularly or every now again for showing certain things like that

it may take a few months for his hoof to be very tough and stable

its a huge process of drowing his feet out and trmming them accordingly

HAVE A CHAT TO YOUR FARRIER =)
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Hope that helps
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That answer your question?
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Horse owner and professional turned medical coder. I have also worked for several years on a breeding farm.

When the horse moves you can count four distinct hoof beats which produce a cadence of equal rhythm.

1. Walking- Four-beat gait
At the walk, the horse has three feet on the ground and only one in the air at any time. It places each foot on the ground in turn; first a hind leg, followed by the foreleg on the same side, then the other hind leg and finally the remaining foreleg.

2. Trotting- Two-beat gait
At the trot, opposite fore- and hind feet hit the ground together in turn to give a two-beat gate. The fact that only one forefoot or hind foot is bearing weight at any one time makes this the best gait to use to detect lameness.

3. Cantering- Three-beat gait
At the canter, two diagonal feet hit the ground together. The other two feet hit the ground separately, making a three-beat gate. One forefoot is followed by the opposite hind foot, then the other two feet together. There is a time when no feet are on the ground.

4. Galloping- Four-beat gait
This follows the same pattern as the canter, but the paired limbs do not hit the ground together. The hind limb lands slightly before the paired forelimb, making a four-beat gait. In the gallop and the canter, a horse can change which foreleg is leading.

You never want your horse to be "out of cadence" because it is easily detected by a judge while showing. Horses that are lazy are the ones most likely to be "out of cadence", therefore, training for a constant motion is crucial with horses.

Horse gaits (with correct cadence):
http://thumbs.dreamstime.com/thumb_425/1249578190q26432.jpg
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Website used:
http://www.biologydaily.com/biology/Rocky_Mountain_Horse
Book used: The Complete Horse Care Manual by Colin Vogel

Now you should wait until at least three to breed you filly that would make her four when she foals and relatively solid.

Studs should not be bred until they are at least two and preferable at least three or even four. Make sure they are WELL trained to lead (riding helps too) so that they are easier to handle as studs. Be prepared for quite a change in attitude when they do begin breeding. They can become quite aggressive and hard to handle.
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For example walk is 4 beats per stride and there should be an even foot fall.

Trot is two beats to the stride. He should be steady, even in his pace and cover the ground.

Canter is three beats.
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Riding instructor

The first thing I would add to your list is a first aid kit. Make sure you Betadine wash, lineament of some kind (anything with an antibiotic for treating minor cuts and abrasions), standing wraps, pillow or flannel wraps, vet tape, and scissors. You should also think about getting a supply of Bute from the vet, either in pill or paste form. These are all basic supplies that are good to have on hand in case of emergency.

You should also think about what your horse will need for turn-out. August is a summer month, so the flies will be abundant (unless you’re in the southern hemisphere). You’ll want fly spray and a fly mask for sure. Fly sheets and boots are optional, but I recommend them. If you have a dark horse, a white fly sheet will absorb some of the sun’s rays and prevent him from overheating. It’ll also help keep that coat nice and dark, not bleached out from the sun. Some horses also need bell boots for turn-out or riding. If your horse pulls shoes easily or has a longer, overreaching stride, you’ll definitely want to invest in a pair of these.

For the winter months, if you live in a particularly cold climate, you’ll probably want to blanket your horse. Blankets some in three basic weights: heavy, medium, and light. A light weight turnout or at least a sheet is required for almost all climates. My horse wears one even in Florida when it gets cool. If you live in extreme cold, a heavy weight turnout blanket is best. For those chilly nights, you can layer the sheet and the blanket for added warmth. I always advise blanketing in the winter if you plan on riding, because a horse in hard work that has a thick coat will sweat a lot. Unless you spend the hours drying it out of a hairy winter coat, it can freeze in the fur and cause illness and discomfort.

You’ll also want to consider some sort of galloping boot or polo wraps for your horse’s legs, especially if you’ll be doing any kind of intense work like jumping or lots of galloping. His legs are very important, so you want to protect them.

Some stables put all horses on a worming program, but most of the time you’ll be responsible for worming your one horse. This can be done either as a pellet or paste. In paste form, the wormer is given every other month for a total of six times a year. In turn, you should alternate the active ingredient you use after every other use, so you should be using three different types of wormers a year. This is to prevent the worms from building up an immunity to a certain type of wormer. You can also get a pellet wormer like Strongid. It’s more expense and you’ll still have to worm with a past twice a year (again, making sure you use a different active ingredient than what’s in your paste). But it can be worth it because it comes with five thousand dollars worth of colic surgery insurance.

That brings me to my next point, which is an insurance policy. It’s not a necessary expense, but I recommend insurance to anyone with a valuable animal or a horse they will be transporting or showing. Premiums vary, but I spend a little over four hundred a year to keep my horse insured. It protects against mortality, major medical, colic, and theft. It’s always a relief knowing I’ll have some protection in case the worst should happen.

You’ll be surprised by how much you’ll have to buy when you have a horse. Sometimes it feels like I’m living at the tack store and the barn. There are always things you can’t plan for. For instance, my saddle used to fit my horse quite nicely. But as his muscles grew and he developed a topline, I had to invest in a new correctional pad. But you’re doing the right thing now by trying to accumulate a list of the basics. These are the things that are good to always have on hand, and anything else you can pick up later. Good luck with your new horse!
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Will the horse be for recreational riding or will you be showing as well? If you are showing, there is a lot of additional equipment you will need.

One thing you really should spend money on is a pre-purchase veterinary exam. Make sure to include a lameness exam and if you plan on breeding in the future, a breeding exam as well.
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Remembering the course isn’t that hard actually. When you’re out there riding, you sort of instinctually know where to go because of the way the jumps are arranged… the way they’re facing. Just look at the chart when they post it, then stand at the ring until you’ve memorized where to go. Then you can watch other people riding the course to get an idea of what you want to do when you ride… think about if you would have turned there or gone straight longer and whether you’ll try to get the line in 5 or keep it a 6. Sometimes you can ride in the arena in the morning before the show starts. You probably won’t know the course yet, but if you ride there, think about the possible combinations that they could make for the course.
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